
The Appeal of Pinot Noir
Pinot Noir is the sexiest grape in the world. Its fruit flavor is a perfect, sun-warmed juicy cherry. Its texture is silk. Its scent is your un-showered lover. To its devotees, me among them, Pinot Noir on a label or restaurant list isn’t merely a wine option. It’s a full-on, come-on, seduction. And a tease: Pinot plays so coy with its character that you never quite know what flavors and scents you’ll be getting, but that’s part of the pleasure.
And the pain. Although France’s Burgundy region is the HQ for the world’s greatest Pinot Noirs, every bottle of Burgundy is like a blind date: you never know if you’ll score, but you can be pretty certain the odds aren’t in your favor. Everything in Burgundy, from weather to winemaking, is so erratic that the only sure thing about these Pinots is high prices. At their best, the toe-curling allure of these wines is worth every penny.
And while Pinot Noirs from elsewhere in the wine world rarely reach those heights, they don’t cost such high prices, either. With fine specimens like these, I can afford to satisfy my desires a little more often.
Clos du Bois, Sonoma
It is so rare to find this – fabulously savory, smoky Pinot Noir flavor and smoothness – in a wine that’s widely available, and well under $20. Magnifique!
Allan Scott, New Zealand
New Zealand makes great Pinot Noir, and over the next few years we’ll see lots more of it (hoo-ray!) as new vineyard plantings come on line. Here’s a great introduction to their style, which is racy and juicy, and tastes like cherry cobbler.
Chehalem, 3 Vineyard, Oregon
Mmm…mushrooms, truffles, berry compote, and a little bit of peppery spice. Just add duck, or salmon, or wild mushroom risotto.
Morgan Santa Lucia Highlands, Monterey
This Pinot Noir is delicious every year, and is also distinctive, with fleshy cherry fruit flavor and smoky-meaty scent.
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